@Areba, there are seperate circuits for the 30-45amps lines for the cooker which includes heavier cables. As soon I get sometime, will have a word with KPLC engineers on the high amp distribution circuits. The cable used here is 2.5mm with solid earthing. The same way an arc welding machine cannot be plugged into a 13amp socket, which will cause the CB to trip, it must be connected to a 30Amp line. The 240V 30Amp line = minimum of 7000Watts, the electric cooker will do much more at full load. That link I posted carries a lot of info that can be helpful to others for design basis.
We should create a seperate thread for alternative energy and systems, you can provide the info on balance as you find necessary and practical. After years of playing around with backup energy, I realised that it is a waste of funds unless I do a proper system. This is my personal view.
Rgds. :-)
On Thu, Dec 15, 2011 at 5:23 PM, [ Brainiac ]
<arebacollins@gmail.com> wrote:
@aki thats convolunted reasoning, it being part of my profession means nothing except that beyond talk i DO touch the wires and get down and dirty with it all... so knock yourself out, its indeed healthier debate than a tad in this very list.
on the 30A rating, i would say its the same reason they write 80KPH on many trucks. Well, kinda, cause if the car got to the autobahn that 80 would mean bull. that said, unless you have an extra 60A connection in the house, you cant run say the oven and the grill on those cookers in a domestic setup... unless of course you have those copper wire fuses the KPLC guys put after vandalizing and pawning the original ones for some little cash. most youll get in MOST homes is 13A, or 2990W/2.9KW at 230-240V